Labels on organic cosmetics: the keys to understanding everything

By the 02 September 2014

Many of you have many questions concerning the labels of organic cosmetics. What does such and such label guarantee? What are there strong and weak points? In all, how to get by in this jungle?

 

To understand the ins and outs once and for all, here are the principle strong points and weaknesses we have identified in each label…

STRONG POINTS AND WEAKNESSES IN ORGANIC COSMETIC LABELS

Ecocert / Cosmébio

Strong points:

– 95% of the ingredients are of natural origin minimum

– Colorants and synthetic perfumes, petrochemicals derivatives (paraffine, silicone, …), ethoxylated materials (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) banned.

– PVC and PS packagings banned.

Weaknesses:

  • Only 95% of the ingredients of natural origin are organic (50% with the label “ecological cosmetics”)

  • Palm oil derivatives authorized

  • No restrictions concerning esterified and hydrogenated oils

  • – 5 synthetic preservatives existing in thier natural states are authorized: why not use a natural equivalent?

  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate authorized

  • No obligation to use 100% recyclable packs

  • – PET packs authorized


BDIH

Strong points:

  • – Colorants and synthetic perfumes, petrochemical derivatives (paraffin, silicone, …), ethoxylated materials (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) banned.

Weaknesses:

  • No minimum percentage required of ingredients of natural origin or organic ingredients

  • Synthetic preservatives existing in their natural state authorized: why not use their natural equivalents?

  • Palm oil derivatives authorized

  • No restrictions concerning esterified and hydrogenated oils

  • No obligation to use 100% recyclable packs

  • – PET packs authorized

Natrue

Strong points:

  • – Perfumes and synthetic colorants, petrochimcals and Sodium Laureth Sulfate banned

  • – Plastics with chlorine (PVC) banned

  • Report on sustainable development or a life cycle study of the products obligatory

Weaknesses:

  • Limits of the mximum percentage of ingredients of natural origin (15 to 20%)

  • Only 0 to 95% minimum of organic ingredients: why not 100%?

  • Synthetic preservatives that exist in their natural state authorized: why not use their natural equivalents?

  • Palm oil derivatives authorized

  • No restrictions concerning esterified and hydrogenated oils

  • No obligation to use 100% recyclable packs

  • – PET packs authorized

  • – Sodium Lauryl Sulfate authorized

Nature & progrès

Strong points:

  • – 95% minimum of ingredients of natural origin

  • Palm oil derivatives banned starting January 1, 2015: we are very happy at oO to finally see an organic label make a stand against palm oil and its ravages

  • Raw natural materials must be organic as soon as they are organically grown

  • Ingredients of chemical origin are not tolerated unless there are no organic ingredients that can replace its function

  • colorants, perfumes, antioxidants, preservatives, oils and other petrochemicals (silicone, paraffin) are banned

  • PVC and PSE packs banned

  • instructions concerning water management, renewable energies, waste management and transportation improvements

Weaknesses:

  • No limitations concerning the percentage of maximum synthetic ingredients

  • – PET packs authorized

Cosmos Organic

Strong points:

  • – Nanomaterials and ethoxylated materiels (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) banned

  • Exclusive use of raw material respecting the criteria defined by the Convention of international commerce of endangered fauna and flora (CITES)

  • – Packaging : PVC and polystyrene banned

Weaknesses:

  • No minimum percentage of ingredients of natural origin, simple incitation to use as many as possible

  • – 2% of petrochemicals allowed (9 semi-natural, semi-petrochemical molecules authorized)

  • Only 95% of natural ingredients are organically grown: why not 100%?

  • – 5 synthetic preservatives that exist in their natural state are authorized: why not use their natural equivalent?

  • Palm oil derivatives authorized

  • No restrictions concerning esterified and hydrogenated oils

Demeter

Strong points:

  • Petrochemicals (benzene, hexane, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,..) chelating agents chélateurs (EDTA) and synthetic perfumes are banned

Weaknesses:

  • No minimum required in organic ingredients or Demeter to be approved

  • No strict criteria on the composition and recycling of packs: simple incitation to have less packs

Nordic Swan

Strong points:

  • Parabens, l’EDTA, borates and triclosan banned

  • – Packaging : all the elements must be seperable, minimum packs, chlorine and PVC banned

  • Limits concerning biodegradibility, toxicity and bioaccumulationof ingredients

Weaknesses:

  • No minimum percentage of organic ingredients or of natural origin

  • No maximum percentage of synthetic ingredients authorized

  • No preservation of biodiversity policy

Vegetarian Society

Strong points:

  • No ingredients of animal origin except eggs from free-range chickens

Weaknesses:

  • No precisions concerning the naturality of ingredients, preservation of biodiversity and the environment or packs

  • Palm oil derivatives authorized

Vegan Society

Strong points:

  • no ingredients of natural origin

  • Reduction of water and cultures: these resources are used to feed animals

Weaknesses:

  • No precisions concerning the naturality of ingredients, preservation of bidiversity and packs

  • Palm oil derivatives authorized

IMPROVEMENT POSSIBILITIES FOR ORGANIC LABELS

With this table, the strong points and weaknesses of the different labels in organic cosmetics are not a secret to you anymore. It’s based on this comparative study of the standards of each label, that we have thought of improvement possibilities and that we have established our own standard.

Among the improvement required in organic labels, three problematics are dear to our hearts:

 

1. Respecting biodiversity: palm oil

oO skin care products don’t have palm oil or any derivatives. Indeed, at oO we refuse to contribute to massive deforestation related to it. Only Nature & Progrès bans palm oil and its derivatives starting 2015. No other label of organic cosmetics positions itself on its use.

 

2. Esterified and hydrogenated oils as well as global environmental approaches.

It is the same concerning esterified and hydrogenated oils: no label positions itself on their use. They are chemically modified oils of poor quality and the production costs are weak, we refuse to use them in our products. We don’t want to be partially organic. First pressure oils and organic ingredients are expensive but it’s the price to pay to sell quality products of which we are 100% proud.

 

3. Eco-design

Labels are encourage brand to better manage their wastes and to produce using less energy. However, these recommendations are often limited to volunteers and aren’t a formal obligation. According to us, the only incitation isn’t enough and environmental responsibilities shouldn’t be limited to a few scattered actions. We try to go beyond and adopt a global and scientific approach. We are the first cosmetic brand to have undertaken an eco-designed approach on all of our products, in order to limit at the source our environmental impacts. In order to do this, experts did a complete life cycle analysis on our products, to evaluate the ecological impacts associated to each step of the products life, from the way our ingredients are grown to their transportation, fabrication, to their use by you and the end of their life.

Les différences oOlution : 100% éthique, écologique & responsable !

 

Sources :

  1. Ecocert : http://www.ecocert.com/sites/default/files/u3/Referentiel-Ecocert.pdf
  2. BDIH : http://www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de/f/directive_cosmetiques_naturels.htm
  3. Natrue : http://www.natrue.org/fileadmin/natrue/downloads/Criteria_2.8/NATRUE-Label_Requirements_V2-8_EN.pdf
  4. Nature & Progrès, 2013 : http://www.natureetprogres.org/servicepro/sp91.pdf
  5. COSMOS ORGANIC : http://www.cosmos-standard.org/docs/COSMOS-standard-v2-21102013.pdf
  6. Demeter : http://www.demeter.fr/sites/default/files/cc_transfo_052013.pdf
  7. Nordic Swan : http://www.nordic-ecolabel.org/criteria/
  8. Vegetarian society : https://www.vegsoc.org/
  9. Vegan society : http://www.vegansociety.com/

 

Partager :
Newsletter

Did you enjoy this article ?

Subscribe to our newsletter to have more love/advices/special offers in your inbox!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *